ashion Week is all about pushing the boundaries when it comes to style stereotypes. And the slew of designers at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week did just that and more. Their signature styles not just extended to the kinds of prints, fabrics and techniques they employed but also the types of silhouettes they played with, a perfect backdrop to their artistic vision.
Kimono jackets: An ode to the Orient, Payal Pratap’s collection showed plenty of kimono cuts, lending themselves to jackets, trenches and dresses. Paired with bun pins and geta (Geisha footwear), every garment was like a slice out of old world Japan.
Peplum blouses: This perhaps was one of the most popular silhouettes oft spotted on the runway. A trend that found its place of pride a few seasons ago seems to be a favourite with our designers. While Rimzim Dadu paired her peplums with fit-defying pants, Rahul Mishra incorporated the silhouette into his waist-length saree blouses.
Matador jackets: A bold as well as sophisticated signature style statement from the designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi where they combined structured jackets with flowy silhouettes as a single garment. A reference to Spanish bullfighters!
Capes: A tough trend to pull off, the runway saw plenty of those. Designers like Masaba for Satya Paul, Aneeth Arora, Rina Dhaka and Mandira Wirk showed exactly how to pair a cape for the wintry evenings.
Victorian gowns: Shantanu and Nikhil brought back eternal lady-like gowns that channeled timeless elegance and sophisticated allure.
Pencil skirts: An eternal favourite with fashionistas, Nachiket Barve’s pencil skirts were complemented by boxy tops while Sanchita’s striped creation was paired with a floral blouse.
Handkerchief hem: The blue-eyed boy of the Indian fashion fraternity Rahul Mishra added some structure to his intricately embroidered ensemble with fitted sleeves and pants while Pia Pauro belted hers and ut them together with opaque tights to balance the look.
Shift dress: Shifts were plenty on the ramp but mastered best perhaps by Pankaj and Nidhi. With clean structure and intricate detailing, the designers’ clothes were versatile enough to wear for a cocktail event or a formal family get-together. Mandira Wirk combined hers with feathered fascinators and faux fur stoles. Samant Chauhan jazzed up his shifts with nate embroidery and osurface embellishments.
Sarees: Fashion veterans like Abraham and Thakore and Tarun Tahiliani treated sarees with their signature style. While the designer duo kept their ahimsa silk woven drapes clean with only temple borders and miniature prints punctuated to break the monotone, Tarun Tahiliani added colour and shine to his sarees, made perfect for festive occasions.
Cowl: Pushing the envelope on traditional silhouettes, designers for menswear experimented with the hemlines, often resorting to the cowl at the bottom half of the garment instead of at the regular neckline. Shantanu and Nikhil used the classic combination of black and white for his cowl hems while Malini Ramani incorporated cowl hems into women’s garments as well. An interesting tweak to the regular affair.