INIFD Presents Gen Next Show
A fresh crop of designers emerge at the Lakme Fashion Week every year and this year’s batch gave a glimpse of new ideas and directions to watch out for.
The show began with Mirage’s marbled prints in white and muted shades of peach and mint on layered tunics, shirtdresses and pencil skirts. Feather fascinators adorned the models’ hair. Next came Rouka’s ‘Monsoon’ collection, in which models walked down the ramp carrying umbrellas that had paper boats, hearts and vintage taxi motifs embroidered on them. The prints were echoed on the monochromatic easy silhouettes. Contrasting with the serene monochromes were Vilvin’s vivid patchwork weaves and bird embroideries in bright shades of mustard, red, green, brown and blue.
A menswear collection by Antar Agni comprised dhoti pants, jackets and turbans worn by bearded models, who sported kohl-rimmed eyes. The earthy shades of grey, black, navy, brown and white spoke of the man who is an urban nomad. Next, Divya Sethi combined Shibori and Bandhani with Ajrakh prints in indigo and white on long, front open dresses and sarees. Crochet lace punctuated the fluid fabrics. And finally, Selvage showcased a modern twist on the classic shift dress, with asymmetric and step hemmed dresses of different lengths in black, white and bright orange.
Valliyan by Nitya Arora
Valliyan’s Nitya Arora showcased her jewellery collection, Julie loves Juliette, that had pairs of female models in coordinated clothes, reminiscent of a bride and groom, walk down the ramp. Loud, Art Deco inspired motifs like the sunbeam and other geometric shapes in gold formed the core of the collection, while birds and flowers in a riot of colours gave the effect of a summer afternoon in a tropical garden.
Cluster bead necklaces, long tassel chains, statement earrings, maang tikkas, tie pins, brooches and headbands – there was no piece of jewellery that this collection didn’t offer. Brooches were even attached to the garments in a pattern, to give the effect of three dimensional embellishments. For anyone who likes their jewellery to be quirky and statement making, Nitya’s unique pieces were must haves.
With his solid and colour blocked outfits embellished with metallic accessories, Nikhil Thampi has established his signature style, while become popular among Bollywood celebs. His Summer / Resort ’14 collection had sharp suits and jackets with daring cut outs and high-waist pencil skirts with zippered slits open till the thighs. Crop tops, bra tops and hot shorts heated up the runway even more while sheer capes and leather panels added texture.
This time the metal of choice was copper, and it was used in the form of statement jewellery, brooches and even buttons on the shirts. Creating a tonal effect on warm shades of tan, mustard, brown, peach and red, along with the classic white, copper was a refreshing change from the usual golds and silvers seen on his shows. No point for guessing we will be seeing more of this metal in the times to come.
Nishka Lulla stuck to her aesthetics of pale, muted colours and easy silhouettes for her summer collection at the fashion week. Nude dominated the colour palette, and dull pista green, baby blue and taupe followed. With noodle strap camisole tops and slip dresses worn with matching bras that had sheer paneled edges, the collection was evocative of the comfort that only loungewear can give. Layered on top were sheer tops and bomber jackets, giving the outfits a sporty yet breezy vibe.
Dainty printed separates and drop waist sheer dresses lent the collection a simple and playful quality, while a gold velvet jumpsuit added a different dimension to it. The only embellishment seen was mother of pearl embroidery on the sheer pieces that were covetable pieces for the women who is spirited and sophisticated.