Extra Innings

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While clothes make the show, sometimes it is accessories that steal it. We saw a plethora of accessories, some classic and some avant-garde, at Wills India Fashion Week – Autumn Winter 2014. Here’s a quick breakdown on the pieces that are going to be hot sellers next winter.

Footwear

footwearMove over stilettos, it’s time for flats in endless varieties. There were modified juttis with mesh details and straps at Tarun Tahiliani and wool and raffia woven flats at Paromita Banerjee that complemented their Indian silhouettes and weaves respectively. And for the sporty ones, Kallol Dutta presented his signature silhouettes with matching sneakers. Anand Bhushan’s spiked boots and Rimzim Dadu’s woven flatform shoes also caught our attention. As clothes on the runway are becoming easier and relaxed every season, it is no surprise that shoes are taking the same direction while making their own statements.
Headgear

head-gearWhile hairstyles play an important part in the overall look of an ensemble, designers are exploring newer ways to add to the mood of their collections, and this time we saw innovative headgears take that role. Hairbands have made a permanent home at fashion weeks, in ornate forms – whether Tarun Tahiliani’s embellished black and gold ones, or parandi inspired tassled pieces at Pratima Pandey, beaded ones at Dev r Nil and minimal bands at Masaba for Satya Paul. And if you’re not into hairbands, Payal Pratap’s Orient inspired golden bun pins are just the thing for you.
Jewellery

JwlryLike a cherry on the cake, jewellery adds that perfect finishing touch to a garment and the runways saw a variety of adornments this season. Anupama Dayal, who is as known for her clothes as she is for her jewellery sent her ‘Kama’ models down the runway in pearl and gold matha pattis and folksy necklaces that epitomised feminine beauty. Raakesh Agarvwal’s bondage inspired chain linked cuffs and collars, on the other hand showed the dominatrix side of a woman. Anand Bhushan’s silver DNA earrings, Gaurav Jai Gupta’s terracotta necklaces and Myoho’s cloth bangles were among those that stood out.
Bags

bagsThe sports luxe trend has influenced bags too; backpacks showed up on the runways of Abraham & Thakore, Masaba for Satya Paul and Sanchita, the latter who also used faux fur on slouchy clutches. On the contrary, minaudieres and box clutches are still going strong, as seen at Nikasha and Shantanu & Nikhil’s shows. What caught our attention were the button embellished bags at Dev r Nil.

Not mere etceteras, accessories are covetable pieces that can drastically change the character of a look, so we would suggest spending some time on choosing the right ones and getting the look you desire.

Playing the cards right with Pankaj and Nidhi

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Autumn/Winter by Pankaj and Nidhi paid homage to the century’s old game of playing cards. The designer couple told the world how spades, hearts, clubs and diamonds could make the most intriguing patterns. We saw cleaner, sharper and edgier Pankaj and Nidhi than last time. Especially with the monochrome ensembles- black sailor pants in Jodhpuri silhouette, royal-looking embroidered suspenders and oh-so-perfect Norfolk and matador jackets.

Front row: Neha Dhupia, one of the most loyal patrons of the designers sat in the front row and even gave a standing ovation to the duo.

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Colours: Keeping the evening winter wear theme in mind, Pankaj and Nidhi wisely ranged their colour palette from mustard, emerald green, mint, powder blue to playing-card-inspired black and white.

Hero piece: The glorified cape worn on one side and pinned on another was the show stealer. The audience couldn’t stop themselves cheer when it walked the ramp.

Music: Before we had even taken out our smart phones to Shazam the cool music for the evening, along came to flamenco dancers who simply took our breath away.

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Accessories and jewellery:  Flat motif earrings in gold finish were given to match up with the playing-card theme of the collection. We also saw gold thread embroidered envelope clutches, again matching with the patterns on the outfits.

Hair and make up: The whole look was kept very bold in a high-end way. Thick black eyes with a hint of shimmer was apt for the theme of the collection. Hair was again kept sleek to go with the sharp feel of the look.

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Final words: Pankaj and Nidhi have always scored extra points because of their fine applique work and embroidery and this time too they got our perfect score for finesse in design and perfection in quality. We can doubtlessly say that they are clear winners when it comes to applique art on clothes.

Urban shikaar with Abraham and Thakore

 

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Visual palette cleanser’. That was the takeaway from Abraham and Thakore’s Autumn Winter 2014 collection. This time again the designer duo stuck to their signature style of creating contemporary silhouettes with Indian textile. Zippered sarees, trench coats, t-shirts, tunics, jackets in wild tussar silk were abundant, whereas in prints we saw remarkable amalgamation of Ikat and leopard print. If we have to summarise Abraham and Thakore’s work in one word, we would call it season-less.

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Colours: Keeping up with the type of fabric used, the collection was restricted to the golden hues of wild silk. To get their message across, Abraham and Thakore only used safari shades like beige, khakhi, cream and black.

Accessories: Equally astounding were the accessories of the show. Sleek metallic belts and mini backpack in shiny bronze shade added just the right amount of edge to the designers’ work. Music: Along with being awestruck to see the safari-influenced creations, we observed the crowd tapping their feet to aurally-appealing tracks like Still on fire and Journey to Kepler too.

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What we loved: The leopard print trench coat carried a real wow factor despite being made by something as basic as silk. We got the idea of capturing wildlife-inspired print on wild silk quite clearly.

Hair and makeup: The look was kept fuss-free yet strong with hair pulled back into a sleek and clean braid and wide streak of black eyeliner on the lids.

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Final words: Indeed, Abraham and Thakore are one of those designer duos who seem to bloom under constraint. Keeping extreme control over everything from colour palette, silhouettes and prints, the designers showcased urbane toughness through this collection. For a change we saw extremely wearable outerwear with standouts like trench coats, jackets and blazers. We know what fashion followers are going to be swooning over in the coming days.

The young and the restless

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with veteran designers at the Wills India Fashion Week rolling out their creations season after season, the arc lights have shifted to younger yet immensely talented designers, who are taking the Indian fashion industry by storm. With a healthy presence of international buyers and fashion forward folk at the event, no wonder in terms of business the national capital leads from the front.

creative-4Myoho

‘Myoho’ by Kiran and Meghna

‘Myoho’, a label founded by Kiran Jaisinghani and Meghna Agarwal presented Indian handlooms in relaxed, contemporary silhouettes. Long tunics and kurtas layered over loose pants in deep reds and black had touches of interesting draping, and stringed feet and cloth bangles added to the monastic yet feminine look.

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Prama by Pratima Pandey

Romance was in the air, with French and Hindi renditions of ‘La vie en rose’ that played as models walked down in floral prints and embroideries, dots and circles, layered over each other, in kurtas for women and tailored suits for men. A clean palette of black, white and red echoed the feeling of a Parisian love affair.

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Vaishali S

Vaishali’s strength has been Indian textiles, and today she gave us light and ethereal, yet very wearable clothes that had fine workmanship in pleating and weaves. Crochet detailing added more textural interest to the monochrome collection that had touches of pale yellow and navy in sheer layers for an interesting play of light and shadows.

While Myoho, Prama and Vaishali S are all about easy wearability, another crop of designers are pushing the envelope with their out of the box silhouettes, textures and strong statements.

creative-6RIMZIM

 

Rimzim Dadu

Can delicate chiffon and tough leather ever work together? In Rimzim Dadu’s village, they can, and oh, how beautifully! Stripped apart, corded and then put together, chiffon found a new form that was at par with the structure of leather, perfect for the interesting silhouettes. Woven flatform shoes echoed the intricate texture of the garments, while giving them a fresh, sporty touch.

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Kallol Dutta

Tyre tracks and blood splatter prints intensified the sombre mood at Kallol Dutta’s show. The maverick designer doesn’t play by the rules. Unusual, billowing silhouettes that mystify the shape of the body, find takers among those with a fearless, artsy bent of mind. If you want to break away from conventional rules of fashion, Kallol is your best friend.

creative-2Anand-Bhushan

Anand Bhushan

Unearthing the glossy layers of ‘plastic people’ to reveal their core, down to the basics of DNA and atomic structures and exposing them by bringing them out to the surface – Anand Bhushan’s ‘Broken’ was true to his signature style of 3D textures and unconventional aesthetics. Cracked mirror textures gave out a strong message, while being visually pleasing in their own special way.

In a fast changing world of fashion, it takes a combination of talent and grit to break through the crowd and make a mark in this cluttered, chaotic, colourful world. These young guns are an inspiration to aspiring designers and the ones to watch evolve in the years to come.

Dreamy drapes by Tarun Tahiliani

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hence ornament as the principal embellishment is the glue that binds this collection together”, was how Tarun Tahiliani summarised his Autumn/Winter 2014 range. The designer was inspired by traditional ornaments like satlada (multi-stranded Hydrabadi necklace) and various traditional Mughal and South Indian jewels. The designs of these traditional ornaments were meticulously embedded in the necklines, sleeves and drapes of the ensembles. Sticking to what he does the best, Tarun created boundary-breaking silhouettes through draping. The collection consisted of one-of-a-kind dhoti skirts, kaftans, kedeo tops, salwar pants, lungi dresses and saris.

Showstopper: Every attendee present in the hall was spellbound by the stunning Shilpa Shetty clad in a skimpy cowl neck choli paired with a billowing lehenga skirt.  Accompanying her were Bollywood actors Harman Baweja and Ayesha Khanna who also sported the designer’s creations.

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Colours: The show started with monochromes in chikankari, ombre, prints and pleats and matured with more wintery shades like oxblood, scarlet, navy, emerald green and teal.

Jewellery and accessory: Multi-stranded tassle earrings, ghungroo-studded bangles, embellished head gears and jhumka hoops were the soul of the collection. Footwear for the show was the humble jutti with a modern twist. Strappy, cutout-detailed plain jutti with drawstrings went well the solid coloured outfits.

Music: It was a harmonious confluence of background score and live foot-tapping and rhythmic music created by two Rajasthani folk artistes with their traditional khartaal and contemporary beats.

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What we loved: We were left lusting after the corset-like belts worn over saris to get a kimono silhouette. Equally astounding were the lungi dresses and skirts.

Hair and make up: Straight hair accompanied by glossy brown mouth well complimented the wintery hues of the collection. Eyes were shadowed with earthy shades to make the lips stand out.

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Final words: Tarun is unarguably the champion of dramatic drapes while Autumn Winter 2014 will also see exquisite Indian jewellery as part of the celebrated designer’s work. Surprising elements such as knot detailing on the sleeves, short dupatta carelessly propped over anarkali suits and traditional kedeo paired with a modern pencil silhouette made Tarun’s show the talk of town.